700R4 Installation
Tips
Having recently install a TH700R4
transmission into my Jeep TJ I thought I'd share a few pointers.
Generally, the aim in any type of conversion, is to IMPROVE the vehicle. I also
happen to have great respect for the engineers that originally designed the
vehicle. For the most part, they did a great job designing the vehicle,
making the vehicle safe, reliable, and delivering satisfactory performance, for
most normal applications, and it would seem to me, to be arrogant, on my part,
to think that I can, so easily, improve on what a team of engineers, and plenty
of research and development funds were able to do.
With this in mind, do your conversion
meticulously;
- Make cooler lines out of New
5/16" (in most cases) steel line, and bend the lines carefully (with a
tube bender), and double flare the ends. Don't use copper line, or fuel
hose!
- Use a new, factory type transmission
mount, and make a cross-member (if your installation requires it) that is as
close to factory style, as possible.
- Make sure the TV cable is in good
condition, and use the factory TV cable brackets (at the carburetor), as
well as a factory TV hookup on the Carburetor. Make sure that it is adjusted
properly.
- Use an original type dipstick tube,
and matching stick. If you don't have the original "stuff", buy a
new tube and stick at your local GM dealer.
- Use a torque converter cover. If you
don't have one, go out and buy one, again, at the dealer.
- Use a factory type manual control
linkage, and hook it up, and adjust it properly.
- Make sure that the flywheel is not
bent, and the teeth are in good shape.
- Make sure the wiring to the TCC(Torque
Converter Clutch) circuit is properly done, and verify that the torque
converter does lock-up properly during the test drive.
- Install new torque converter bolts,
and use #242 locktite on the threads (the threads are 10mm X 1.5, don't use
the standard 3/8-16 bolts that may have been in your previous transmission's
torque converter)
- Make sure the dowels, in the engine
block, extend into the transmission case adequately, and that the engine
block mating surface is clean.
- Take pride in your installation
Wiring the
TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) controls
There are two main controls governing TCC
application. First, there are hydraulic controls, that control lock-up timing,
and application, and Second, there are electrical devices that control, and
override the hydraulic controls. The electrical controls include, a
lock-up solenoid, pressure switches, low-vacuum switch, and a brake-cancel
switch. The following is my recommendations for wiring the lockup circuit in an
earlier conversion
Run an accessory hot wire (hot only when
the key is on), through a normally open brake cancel switch. This switch will
allow current flow, only when it is depressed; The brake pedal depresses the
switch, normally, and releases the switch when the brake is applied. This switch
works exactly opposite the brake light switch, whereas the brake light switch
allows current, only when the brake pedal is depressed, the cancel switch
interrupts current when the brake pedal is depressed, thereby unlocking the
torque converter clutch in a panic stop.
From the brake cancel switch, power is routed through the low-vacuum switch (GM
part#14014519 interrupting power when the vacuum is low, such as heavy
throttle), and connected to the transmission. Inside the transmission, I
normally route power through a 4/3 switch (GM part# 8642346 normally closed),
and then to the solenoid.
I found all this too confusing so I purchased a kit from Painless Wiring
PN 24-6109 which include everything needed.